BRRR...I NEED COMFORT FOOD: Pasta all' Amatriciana

When winter strikes our food thoughts turn to Stews, Chowders and Chilis for comfort, and, oh yes, Amanda's Gumbo! My cravings also include a steaming bowl of a hearty pasta.  Spaghetti (or whatever) all' Amatriciana is one of my favorite and most simple pastas.

Amatrice is a town in Latium, oops, Lazio,  (my Latin and Italian often get confused), where this pasta is a specialty. I have never visited the town. It is located in a triangle close to Umbria, Abruzzi and Le Marche, far from Rome, but the Romans have adopted the dish. Thus, it was in Rome that I tasted "Matriciana" as they call it.


Classically it is served on bucatini, a thick hollowed out spaghetti, but it is also served on normal spaghetti or even penne or other shaped pastas.  It is a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, guanciale ( a dried seasoned pork jowl) with onions, a red hot pepper (which is removed) and served with abundant grated Pecorino.


When I lived in Napoli, molti anni fa, many, many years ago, I purchased a set of regional Italian cookbooks (in Italian) at Upim, a sort of precursor of Walmart here! They have been a valuable resource ever since. The recipes are, I am sure, authentic, as they were written for Italian housewives. The measurements are vague, when they exist, un cucchiaio (spoonful) of this, un bicchiere ( a glass of that) un pizzico (a pinch) of salt or a spice, etc. and they assume a level of culinary skill (combine egg and flour as if to make fettuccine). You must fate rosolare (brown) the meat; spruzzate (sprinkle) the salt or nutmeg..etc. I love these books! I read them for fun! They are the foundation of much of my Italian recipes, but I often alter them to suit my tastes.

May the Amatriciani forgive me, I used smoked pork jowl this time, as that was what was available, and I normally add garlic and lots of ground black pepper to my sauce. In the past, I have used pancetta or bacon and even salt pork, any pork fat will do, but truthfully, guanciale, in its pristine form is what is best.  

This is a simple dish, and quick to make. Use what is available, but don't cheat on the quality of tomatoes or olive oil. San Marzano Tomatoes are a must, and a good, fruity olive oil to blend with the rendered pork fat  gives it an incredible flavor. 

PASTA AMATRICIANA

(Sola Gina Style)

1/4 pound sliced, cubed guanciale or pancetta

1 onion, chopped coarsely

2 cloves garlic, minced

pinch of red pepper flakes

2 or more tablespoons fruity olive oil

1 28 ounce can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed

lots of freshly ground black pepper

pinch of salt

grated pecorino cheese

Pasta, spaghetti, bucatini or penne

Brown the guanciale in oil. Add the onion and garlic and pepper flakes and soften. 

Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper and cook for about 15-20 minutes until thickened.

Meanwhile cook the pasta al dente.

Serve with the sauce and grated pecorino.

Buon' appetito!! 

Sola Gina